Growth factors are one of those ingredients that is talked about and talked about a lot and appear on many bottles of packaging, but there is still a mystery surrounding them. What exactly are they and where do they come from?
More importantly, what can they actually do for your skin? "Growth factors are naturally occurring substances that regulate a variety of cellular processes, including growth, proliferation, and differentiation.
"They are critical for tissue development, wound healing, and maintaining overall cellular health and function," explains Robyn Gmyrek, Ph.D., New York City board-certified dermatologist. (It’s also worth noting that they can be derived from human cells or plants.)
“When used topically, growth factor serums can help support collagen production, improve skin elasticity, and improve skin’s Natural repair process and improves appearance, minimizing fine lines and wrinkles.
They can also help with hydration and overall skin regeneration," Gmyrek explains. Long story short, they're a great anti-aging ingredient that targets multiple factors that make us look older than we are.
Another big plus for them: Unlike other anti-aging ingredients (we're looking at retinoids), growth factors are generally well tolerated and less likely to cause irritation. A versatile, rejuvenating ingredient that won’t harm your skin?
Yes, please. However, it's important to note that not all growth factor serums are created equal, and Gmyrek stresses that specific benefits may depend on the overall formulation of the product as well as the specific growth factors used.
To make your skincare shopping experience easier, we've rounded up some of the best options. Best Overall: Dr. Diamond Metacine Instafacial Series: PhD. Jason Diamond is a plastic surgeon to some of the biggest stars.
The Kardashians and Chrissy Teigen are just a few of his elite patients. He is known for his Diamond InstaFacial, a technique that uses PRP (platelet rich plasma) derived from blood along with microneedling and lasers.
Think of this as an at-home version of in-office treatment, but it requires no blood tests or equipment. This two-step system consists of plasma (more like a gel-like, lightweight serum) containing bioidentical human growth factors, designed to be layered under an emulsion.
This cream is more like a cream and contains time-release retinoids and peptides. result? Skin is smoother, firmer and more radiant. Jill Di Donato, associate editorial director of commerce at Byrdie is a fan and swears by the combination of treatments to smooth out skin texture issues and leave skin soft. "My skin really soaks it up, absorbs it really well. I've been using it every day for six weeks and my skin is firmer and more elastic."
Second place, best overall result: Skin Medica TNS Advanced+ Serum: This cult classic is certainly no newcomer, but it's been a beloved classic for a long time, and for good reason; in fact, it was one of the first products to put the current growth factor on the map. It's often recommended by dermatologists, including Gmyrek. "This serum is known for its combination of growth factors, antioxidants and peptides. It targets fine lines, wrinkles and uneven skin tone," she says.
Best Retinol Pairing: Perricone MD Growth Factor Firming and Lifting Serum: The added retinol in this formula further boosts growth factors that promote collagen production and elasticity. The latter helps achieve the same results but also helps improve exfoliation of the skin's surface, giving you benefits on all levels. Also worth noting: Added eggshell membrane (yes, from eggs), which strengthens the skin barrier and helps lock in moisture.
Best Korean Beauty: Mascad Anti-Aging Serum: This Korean-made serum contains not one, not two, but three different types of growth factors. EGF, KGF, and BGF, they all work slightly differently in different layers of skin but work synergistically in making your complexion more radiant, hydrated, smooth, and plump. Best Budget: Inkey List 15% Vitamin C & EGF Brightening Serum As a general rule of thumb, growth factor serums aren't cheap, which makes this product even more compelling than it might be.
It contains a 1% concentration of epidermal growth factor (EGF) and 15% ascorbic acid glucoside (a form of vitamin C). While it's not as strong as L-ascorbic acid, it's still a great antioxidant and a good choice. Not to mention, it's less likely to cause irritation or burning than stronger treatments. Much more.
Best for Sensitive Skin: Neocutis Bio Serum Firming Regenerating Growth Factor and Peptide Treatment
The serum contains human growth factors along with a variety of other active ingredients, including hydrating hyaluronic acid, hydrating glycerin, and anti-aging peptides.
Here's another recommendation from Gmyrek: "This serum is known for its proprietary blend of growth factors designed to support collagen production and improve skin's overall texture and elasticity," she says.
Best Peptide Alternative: Dr. Babor EGF Growth Factor Concentrate
It does not contain actual growth factors but is based on biomimetic peptides that work by stimulating growth factors naturally present in the skin.
Okay, it's not quite as ideal as the original, but for those who are squeamish about using human growth factors, this formula is a great option since the serum is completely vegan. It's also a bit cheaper than many other products and is ideal for firming and smoothing skin.
Best Moisturizer: Epi.Logic Master Plan Collagen Renew Growth Factor Serum
All growth factor serums help hydrate the skin to some extent, but this one really focuses on that task.
In addition to growth factors, the blend also contains hyaluronic acid, a humectant that attracts moisture and locks it in the skin. Snow mushrooms also help lock in moisture, while shiitake mushrooms plump and brighten skin.
Best Organic Plant Essence: Effect EGF Plumping and Firming Serum
For those looking for plant growth factors, this option is hard to beat. It is based on growth factors found in barley that increase collagen production and hydration. To date, it has been clinically proven to improve skin density and thickness and reduce wrinkles. Not bad: It contains only seven ingredients in total and requires only a few drops to be fully used.
Best Exome: Elevai Enfinity Rejuvenating Serum
Growth factors have been around for a while, but exosomes in skin care are expected to be the new trend. Think of them as close relatives of growth factors.
These are nanoparticles released by cells that contain their own lipids, proteins, growth factors, etc. They work through communication between cells and are primarily responsible for stimulating and mimicking the body's natural healing response, making them ideal for skin regeneration. Exosomes are the star here, along with growth factors, peptides, vitamin C and hyaluronic acid. Final Results? Serum suitable for general skin regeneration.
What to look for in a growth factor serum
growth factor concentration
As with any other active ingredient, you need to make sure you're getting a high enough concentration of the growth factor for it to actually work.
Gmyrek recommends checking to see if the product you're considering has a concentration stated; if not, make sure it's at the top of the ingredients list, like SkinMedica TNS Advanced+ Serum and Elevai Enfinity Rejuvenating Serum. (FYI: Growth factors are often listed as "human stem cell conditioned media.")
Other skin active ingredients
“Look for other beneficial ingredients to complement the effects of growth factors,” Gmyrek advises. "These may include antioxidants, peptides, hyaluronic acid, vitamins and other nourishing compounds that promote overall skin health, hydration and protection against environmental damage." The award-winning Neocutis Bio Serum Firm is the product for you.
Very suitable for daily life
You want a serum that can easily fit into your existing routine. Most of the products on this list are suitable for use morning and night, and like any serum, be sure to apply it before your moisturizer. However, if the serum you're using also contains antioxidants or hyaluronic acid, you can replace it with pure antioxidants or an alternative hydrating serum.
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